ROADKILL THE FINAL TOTAL 09/27/2010
Based on popular demand, I have the final roadkill count. There are a lot of morbid people out there! But it just goes to show how dangerous roads are. Luckily Steve Jobs hasn't invented an i-pod for wildlife yet, otherwise I reckon there would be carnage on the roads. Anyway, top of the list but not really counting are the UA's which totalled 41 (including the Ostrich). DE-BRIEF 09/26/2010
But this isn’t brief! I have been back at work for a few days and the cycling already seems an eternity ago. I have had literally dozens of people come up to me and congratulate me or shake my hand which is really nice. Plus I have had some good comments about my blog, so it seems that more people were reading them than I thought. So a recap on the 18 day trip. I am going to cover it in different topics. Hopefully some of this will be helpful if anybody reading this is considering doing LEJOG at some point. DURATION Despite some of the individual days feeling long, especially the windy ones, although with cooked breakfasts most days, every morning was windy in a different sense, but my point is, the days might have seemed long, but the overall challenge absolutely flew by. I think 16 days was nicely realistic for doing the ride unsupported. The days were challenging, but doable (if that is a word). If you were doing it unsupported, you could do it quicker, a couple of stone of extra weight really does make a difference, but I have had the beer belly for years, oh and the panniers weighed a couple of stone as well. I would say doing it in 16 days unsupported would be lovely as you would have the time and opportunity to see some tourist attractions. ROUTE When planning the route, I tried to avoid major A-roads as much as possible. Overall this was a good strategy. The only thing I would advise though, is when picking minor roads, make sure they at least are displayed on a 4inch to 1 mile scale road atlas. Some of the route especially in the first 4 days included what can only be described as ruts in the ground, this is why my brake pads knackered up so quickly as on some of the downhill stretches we were permanently on the brakes. It was also the reason why Pinhead’s back was covered in cow shite (before he bought his mudguards) EQUIPMENT My Fratello (that is the model of my bike, not an ice-cream) did me proud. I was gutted to get a puncture on the last day, but it was a thorn through a side of the tyre, probably one of the times when Pinhead and I had to veer onto a grass verge to avoid some of the moronic drivers we encountered. Pinhead and I both had Continental tyres, so 1 puncture in 1100 miles is bloody good going. I went through one set of brake pads and had to tighten my gear cable on the last day, but other than a few wipe downs with baby wipes (the bike not me) and a bit of oil everything was tiketyboo. The Ortlieb panniers get 10/10, they withstood some proper downpours, but everything was bone-dry inside. I would also highly recommend buying some of the resealable zipper plastic bags, great for your wallet, phone and camera in your back pockets. My best non-essential piece of equipment would have to be my cycling cap, even though people seem to laugh at me when I am wearing it. It kept sun (not very often) and rain (often) out of my eyes. Kept my head warm in the cold or stopped sweat running down in my eyes. When suicidal flying bugs decided to make a bee-line (pun intended) for me, I didn’t really feel them, unlike Pinhead who screamed like a girl every time something flew into his helmet and started crawling around. On the subject of helmets (cycling helmets), as you have seen from our piccies, we both had mohawks on on our helmets, his obvioulsy attracted some attention and a few comments, it wasn't until about day 14 until somebody said I look like a chicken, something Pinhead had been saying all along. Sometimes I didn't have a clue what people were actually saying, I am not good with northern dialect, being a sarf Londoner. Anyway, the reason for this paragraph, is to highlight the amount of people (including fellow cyclists) that said "nice hat". Can I just point out IT IS A HELMET, NOT A HAT. Right, I am glad I have got that off my chest, or should I say head. ACCOMMODATION Out of the 17 venues that we stayed in, there are only 2 that I would not recommend, obviously the Amityville Horror House in Tintern and we were not too impressed with our digs at Fort William. The rest ranged from very pleasant and good value to absolutely lovely. With the exception of ‘Johnny’ all of the hospitality we received was warm and welcoming. My fav would have to be The George Hotel in Invereray, but I would not hesitate to go back to any of the others. MISCELLANEOUS Other things that I need to blog about that didn’t make it into my original blogs. The dustcart that smelt of Lavender, be interesting to know whose job it is to spray the vehicle each morning and wonder if they change the smell on a monthly basis. The sign for ‘Flicks in the Sticks’ a mobile cinema that travels to small villages. I think that maybe there is scope to expand this idea how about ‘Poker outside the Big Smoke(r)’ – a mobile casino, ‘Rock by the Loch’ – a mobile climbing wall or maybe ‘Clown in the Town’ – a mobile circus. Although thinking about it, a circus is by nature mobile anyway, so that last one may not be such a good idea Plumbers of the world, lend me your ears. Is there not a universal standard for taps on sinks. As we ventured further north, 3 venues had the hot tap on the right instead of the left, we even had one place where the tap turned clockwise rather than anti-clockwise to turn the tap on? When you are tired after 80 miles cycling these things mess with your mind when you start brushing your teeth with hot water! For some strange reason I ended up talking in a strange dialect, a cross between Yorkshire and Pirate talk. Some examples for you. “There be rain in those clouds” “By eck that road was bumpy” “Hill ahead Lad” “We are doomed I tell thee” Strange as we didn’t travel through Yorkshire and didn’t sail the high seas! Hills! One thing I noticed, particularly when we did the big climb in Inverness, that despite being fitter and more used to cycling up hills, is that we didn’t get any faster at climbing. It was just a case of plodding on and getting to the top when you get there. One of my mottos which Pinhead heard regularly is ‘Pain is temporary, Pride if for life’ Hills hurt, especially when I am dragging my fat arse up them, but I am proud to say I didn’t get off and walk up a single hill (neither did Pinhead), every one was cycled up, even if an 80 year old walking his scotty dog could moonwalk up the hill faster. PINHEAD I am sure you are aware from my blogs, to say that Geography is not Pinhead’s strong point would be an understatement. Which kind of explains why he let me plan the route and also navigate. To be honest, if he had navigated, I would probably be typing this now sitting in a B&B in East Anglia, and we would have done 2224 miles to date with still another 800 to go. We had a couple of tense silences on the trip. I am sure I wound him up some times, but the two moments that stick in my mind when he wound me up were… The Shopping trip! Pinhead was complaining his flip-flops (he wanted to save weight) were rubbing his feet and giving him blisters. So despite it being nearly six o’clock we quickly walked, well I did, Pinhead hobbled to the High St in Windermere. So stupidly I thought, feet are hurting, quickly buy a cheap pair of trainers/sandals, need to do it quick as shops are closing, problem solved. Oh no, not in Pinhead’s world. 1st shop, he apparently doesn’t like the range or colours, 2nd shop nothing that he likes. This was the shop that thought we were shoplifting and a woman came running down the road after us. We would have been the world’s worse shoplifters. Pinhead was hobbling with his blistered feet in his flip flops, I was limping because of my sore knee and I was in a bright blue MS Trust t-shirt and Pinhead was in a bright green Macmillan Cancer Support t-shirt, just the perfect attire to mingle into the crowd! Anyway, we get to shop number three, they are hoovering, this is how close they are to closing. Pinhead starts asking for half sizes, different widths, different colours, not liking the prices, wondering if they were fashionable enough. He can’t walk because of blisters yet thinks he is in Clarks Shoe shop on a Saturday afternoon in Bluewater. I had to walk out of the shop, because at this point he was seriously doing my head in! He did buy some though. Getting ready for dinner! Once again I am sure you have gathered from my blogs, that for me it is a case of shower, change, get out for dinner or in the morning get up, go for breakfast, get changed, get out on the bike. Pinhead is how can I put it, put it this way in a previous life he was a tortoise and an element of his previous life is still with him. This night in question, I have showered and dresses and ready to go out for dinner. Now Pinhead takes his usual 30 minute shower, where he no doubts, showers, exfoliates, shampoos, conditions, moisturises, plucks his nasal hair and whatever else he does. I am not too bothered as it gives me a chance to work on my blog. Pinhead saunter’s out of the shower with a towel wrapped round him, potters around the room for 5 mins, not actually doing anything and whatever he is doing he is doing it slowly. He then decides to sit on the edge of the bed and start cutting his toe nails. This sends me over the edge and I politely ask “ARE YOU TAKING THE PISS” tense silence follows as Pinhead gets dressed in double quick time and we walk to a pub for dinner. I know Pinhead was a bit worried at the beginning because he said I was as a stronger cyclist than him. He did struggle for the first 3 days, but got stronger as the trip went on and I think he would have enjoyed the last couple of days if it wasn’t for his nagging injuries. But he didn’t give up on any hill and kept peddling with some encouragement form me (just keep peddling, just keep peddling, just keep peddling) If you have watched the film Finding Nemo and know the character Dorey, you will know what I am talking about. We had some real good laughs along the way and on at least four occasions I can remember we were actually in fits of laughter like little school kids. FINALLY This challenge was an amazing experience and a great way to see parts of this beautiful country. If you are mad enough to even consider doing LEJOG, go for it you won’t regret it. It’s been emotional, you have been a lovely audience! I would sincerley like to thank everybody who has sponsored me, you have made this trip all the more worthwhile and I know the money will help make a difference to MS sufferers. Thanks!! Bye for now Fathead ALL GOOD THINGS MUST COME TO AN END 09/21/2010
DAY SEVENTEEN & DAY EIGHTEEN Before I continue, you may wonder why there are some pictures of a Jack Russell for day 16? This is Coistie (named after Ally McCoist) and is one of the Castletown Hotel regular's pet dog. The dog is a bit of a superstar and was the guest of honour when they re-opened the refurbished bar. As you will see from the first picture of him, he even has his own perch, so he can sit at the bar. As soon as Pinhead and I walked into the bar, he growled. Obvioulsy because we were not locals, but he soon allowed us in for a drink. He is the coolest dog I have met and I wanted to take him, but didn't think it would be very friendly to stuff him in one of my panniers. So, back to day 17. Technically our LEJOG challenge was done, but we still had the small matter of going to Dunnet's Head. As we had done nearly 1100 miles with panniers, we treated ourselves by doing the 18 mile round trip without them. The difference was amazing, we aflew there. My bike was literally 2 stone lighter! It was really nice to go there and as Pinhead put it, "It was the icing on the cake" We had now cycled between the two furthest places apart in mainland UK and had also visited the furthest South and furthest North places in mainland UK. Pinhead came out with another geographical classic, as we were looking west from Dunnet Head, he asked "Is that Ireland?". "er, no mate that is still Scotland! We cycled back to the hotel, to pick up our panniers and then cycled back to Thurso to catch our first train of the day. This was a 3.5 hour journey back through the Highlands to Inverness. Highlights of this journey. Firtsly I finally saw a wild Stag, 3 of them. So I was very happy about that. Secondly there was a woman sitting near us with a 9 month old girl called Lexie, she was in a head to toe pink outfit with a pink dummy. Along comes an old dear " Oh he's lovely isn't he" "How old is he?" "It is a he isn't it?" Someone should of gone to Specsavers me thinks!! Thirdly, as we approached various train stations, the automated tannoy as per usual would announce the station name. I loved it when approaching one station, the tannoy announced that it was a request stop? I couldn't see any bells to press on the train and if I was standing on the platform, sticking your hand out hoping for the train to stop seemed a risky proposition. So I haven't got a clue how this 'request stop' business works? We got to Inverness about 4.30 and had 5 hours to kill, after wandering around aimlessly for 10 minutes trying to find somewhere, I managed to sweet talk a lady on reception of the Royal Highland Hotel to allow us to store our bikes there. Very nice hotel (see piccies). We retired to the adjoining restaurant to update blogs and piccies and consume 2 bottles of red wine accompanied by fillet steak for Pinhead and Duck breast for me. Caroline our waitress (from The Orkeney Islands) was really nice and sorted us out with a 20% discount. We had a quick dash to the local co-op for some supplies (booze) for the train. Putting our bikes on the train, despite having reserved a space for our bikes, there wasn't enough room, to put them in properly, something to do with the 50 odd boxes of fresh lobster that was taking up most of the space, which we later found out were lobster for a certain Mr Gordon Ramsay. My bike now has a nice fishy aroma! So Gordon, if you are reading this, which I am sure you are, how about a little donation to each of our charities, I am sure you can afford it. Pinhead and I got to our cabin with bunk beds and it was like being on a school trip, we made our way to the 1st class lounge area which we were allowed in, (as we had a berth booked) and bought another half bottle of wine each. At first there wasn't enough seats, so Pinhead sat on the floor. To say we were treated like lepers was an understatement, I have never seen so many people look down their noses at me. Obvioulsy they are much better people then me and riff raff like myself and Pinhead dressed in cycling gear shouldn't be allowed to invade their space. But I was in a DILLIGAF mood, so sat back enjoyed myself and drank more wine, followed by a bottle of Wild Cat Ale, followed by a bottle of Stag Ale (both from the Cairngorn Brewery) follwed by a bottle of Red Kite and a bottle of Porter (both from the Black Isle Brewery) I think we crashed out just after midnight and woke at 6.30am. Pinhead wasn't feeling top of the world, I was OK. We got into London just before 8am and I had a quick panic, when I couldn't find my Garmin, but it was eventually found. We then had to cycle from Euston to Monument where I went right over London Bridge and Pinhead went left towards Liverpool St. I still don't know if he made it there yet, knowing Pinhead he is probably cycling on the A2 at the moment. As we cycled past one of London's most iconic landmarks, Pinhead asked "Is that St Pauls?" I replied "yes", "Big isn't it" he responded! I had cycled nearly 1100miles, the length of the country and had not had a single incident with a pedestrian. In the 3 odd miles from Euston to London Bridge, I had 4 people step out in front of me without looking. Add to that being cut up my 2 cyclists, 1 London cabbie and a Bus. It was nice to be back cycling on the streets of London!! I popped into Mich's Work to say hello. She said my belly looked smaller but I smelt of booze, one thing you can say about Mich is that she is always honest :-) I had a quick coffee with her and it was nice to get congratulations from some of her colleagues (although Ade and Pete count as former colleagues anyway) Oh and you heard it here first, Ade and Pete are thinking of possibly doing LEJOG next year, so any E&Y people reading this, get on their case! Sorry fellas ;-) After getting home, I was very domesticated and put all my cycling gear straight into the washing machine. Went and saw my Mum & Dad for some lunch and am now back home typing this and I will be picking my little boy up from nursery in about 45 mins, let's just hope he recognises me! Roadkill Count for day 17. One worm and that was it Distance covered on Day 17 was 35.7kms (22.2miles). Climbing 191m (626 feet) Total Distance Cycled 1769.2kms (1099.3 miles). Elevation 17599m (57739 feet) If you include the Euston to London Bridge cycle, we would have broke the 1100 mile mark. I will be doing one final blog at the weekend, once I have pondered on and digested everything that has happened. By the way I lost 6lbs in weight, don't forget muscle is heavier than fat ;-) Bye for now Fathead DAY SIXTEEN (I hope you are keeping up with the Geordie accent) An earlier start today. For the first time in 16 days Pinhead actually got up before me, I have never seen him move so fast, admitidally it was the speed of a duck waddling, but for Pinhead that is fast. The plan was to be out on the road by 8.30am. By 8.15am, we were ready....... well almost. I had lost one of my gloves, we literally turned the bedroom upside down, emptied my panniers, started checking the rest of the house, it was only when I went into the dining room for a quick scan that the location of my glove was determined! As I turned round, Lindsay one of the owners laughed and said "It's on your arse" Bloody velcro!! Thanks to Mandy and Lindsay for their hospitality. Also Thanks to Kev and Karen who were also staying there who gave us both a fiver towards our charities We were still on the road by 8.30am as planned and seeing the mountains in rolling cloud was amazing. A wild deer did cross our path, but alas it was not a Stag, although we could hear a stag calling. I also saw a Salmon jumping and we both saw an Eagle. We were then passed by two Hercules aircraft. I got a few photos but not as good as I would have liked. Then after 1020miles, it had to finally happen, I got a puncture! This was annoying for three reasons. 1) It was a puncture. 2) it was the rear wheel 3) One of the Hercules flew back other really, really low which would have made for a great picture, but I was in the middle of changing my inner tube. We made good time to get to the North Coast at BettyHill. All trip, we have had predominantly west winds, the day that we need to cycle 40 miles eastwards, well I am sure you can guess. There were a couple of killer hills and the rest was just a slog into the wind. We stopped at Thurso (birthplace of Sir William Smith, founder of the Boys Brigade) for a cuppa and choccy bar before the final push. Pinhead was really suffering with one of his knees, but he kept plugging on. To rub salt into the wounds it started raining 10 miles from John O'Groats. We finally arrived just after 5.30pm. The only word that I can think of that would explain my feeling would be Eurphoric. We almost made a cock up though as we both saw the white post and made a bee line for that, but a woman shouted at us to say the finish line is over there, we nearly cycled all that way and not actually cross the finish line!! Applause and cheers from people waiting for other LEJOGers was really nice as we did actually cross the finish line. Hand shakes and photos followed. Pinhead even had a tear in his eye so I had to give the big Jesse a hug. Literally 5 minutes after we finished, Richard & Judy, the 2 chaps we met 16 days earlier at Land's End crossed the line, more hand shakes and photos and they kindly shared their champagne with us. Another couple of finishers were walked in by 4 chaps playing bagpipes. Once again the camaradarie amongst all the cyclists was excellent My only tinge of regret. It was nice to see others being greeted by their families and I would have loved it if Mich and Max had been there. But I am really looking forward to seeing them both on Tuesday. Back at the hotel, Pinhead's fiance had arranged for a bottle of champagne to be waiting for us in the room which was demolished very quickly (the champagne, not the room). We had a huge roast dinner, followed by dessert and about 6 pints for me and a bottle of wine for Pinhead. So we have finally done LEJOG. But our journey is not over, oh no. We still have to cycle to Dunnet's Head tomorrow morning and then back to Thurso to start our train journeys back down sarf. All we have to do though is a total of about 25 miles. So fo all you avid blog readers, do not fear, there are still a couple more blogs to come. I will be doing another blog about our final cycle and train journey home and will also be doing another 'post mortem' blog with my thoughts on the how trip went, what was good, what was bad and maybe a few pearls of wisdom in case anybody else has a screw lose and decides to do LEJOG. Road KIll count: Hedgehog 4, Rabbit 4, Seagull 2, Sparrow 1, Blackbird 1, UAs 3 Distance covered today 119.9kms (74.5miles). Climbing 952m (3123 feet) Total to date: Distance 1733.5kms (1077.1 miles). Elevation 17408m (57113 feet) With apologies to Tim Vine for plagarism, 'This was a once in a lifetime challenge........never again! Bye for now Fathead M 09/18/2010
DAY FIFTEEN We left Inverness this morning in very damp and grey conditions. Neil and Margaret were lovely hosts at the Bluebell House B&B. We travelled over the Kessock Bridge on the A9, but got of this 2-land racetrack as soon as possible. Although along the A9 we passed 2 support vans for other LEJOG cyclists. The 2nd van, a blue van with a trailer and a couple of spare bikes, we had seen a couple of times before. As we taking some of the back roads, we came to a junction, when all of a sudden we were joined by 9 other cyclists, these were the guys being supported by the blue van. We cycled as a group for about 5 miles chatting away, I was up front chatting to a chap called Stewart. The 9 of them were raising money for 3 Scottish Hospices. Their website is www.2010end2end.com They had a planned stop in a pub in the next village, Evanton and invited us to join them for tea and cake, an offer we couldn't refuse. As we arrived in the village, lo and behold, Richard & Judy (sorry David) rolled up behind us, the chaps we had met 15 days earlier in our B&B at Land's End. It was really funny chatting to these two as it sound they have had a very similar time to us, with escapades, both getting on each others nerves, fun, laughter and killer hills. After a photo shoot, we all went our seperate ways, as the 9 man team & Richard & Judy were taking the A9 route, I had planned our route across the wilderness! Now I had been advised via an internet forum, not to miss Bonar Bridge. So we didn't, as cycled through the preceding village, despite it being a Saturday, nothing and I mean nothing was open, not the corner shop, not the garage, not the Post Office nothing. It was literally a ghost town, we then got to Bonar Bridge. Pinhead was seriously unimpressed with the bridge and said he could have built a better bridge with matchsticks in his CDT class at school. Never the less, we stopped for a tea break. We went into the cafe and the 2 girls serving who were in the kitchen saw us and then promptly ignored us for 3 or 4 minutes, so I got the hump and said sod this and walked out. Eventually, we found the local pub did tea. The barmaid/landlady spoke to Scott, whilst the other 5 locals in their completely blanked us while listening to Radio Scotland. So maybe the reason I was advised to go to Bonar Bridge was for the experience!? But I can assure you, I will never go there again, it is without a doubt the most unfriendly place we have been to! After this we got onto the A836, this was to be our yellow brick road for the whole of the second half of the ride and to be honest there is bugger all other than pine trees, heather, a few sheep and a couple of mountains. This is one place you would not take a gamble with thinking you had enough petrol in the car! I was looking at the sheep and this got me thinking, what a miserable life they lead. They stand out in a field 24/7, 365 days a year, chewing grass, trying not to stand in their own poo and get a hair cut 4 times a year and that is it! The road I have now christened the Ariston road as it went Ariston and on and on and on and... Shortly before our final destination, Pinhead and I stopped, shook hands and took a photo, this was the point where we had cycled 1000 miles!! give or take half a mile, but I am sure over 1000 miles we are entitled to a 0.0005 tolerance. We eventually arrived at Altnaharra just before 6pm. Now I am convinced that Altnaharra literally translates as 'In the middle of bloody nowhere' chatting to Mandy our host this evening and the other 4 guests, Karen & Kevin from Sittingbourne, and Ivor & Christina from Germany (their 12th visit to Scotland) Altnaharra has 33 residents within an 8 mile radius. The primary school has 7 children (which means the teams are always going to be uneven, or the fat kid is always going to get picked last). The closest shop is 21 miles away and the neareast main supermarket is 51 miles away, not really the place to get home after going shopping and realise you forgot to buy the bog roll! Also, last year Altnaharra was the coldest place in Britain when temperatures reached -21. We have had a nice 3 course meal cooked for us, but alas no real Ale tonight :-( Roadkill count: Rabbits were definately on a suicide mission, one was even seen squished in the middle of the Kessock Bridge which is about a mile long. There were 11 today. Mouse 1, Hedgehog 1, Seagull 1 (New Entry), Grouse 2, Pigeon 1. Distance covered today 118.4kms (73.5miles). Climbing 1096m (3595 feet) Total to date: Distance 1613.6kms (1003.7 miles). Elevation 16456m (53986 feet) Bye for now Fathead PS There is no mistake in the title, think about it! LOCHS BUT NO KEYS 09/17/2010
DAY FOURTEEN. I awoke this morning, having the best nights sleep I have had all trip, maybe the miles are catching up with me now. For the first time I couldn't face a cooked breakfast. Now everybody who knows me, knows The Hippo likes his food, but I have seriously overloaded on sausages, bacon and black pudding. We left Fort Bill and cycled for a little way. I was swerving all over the place as I kept looking up to my right to try and get a good view of Ben Nevis. I then took a quick right turn as I thought I saw an opportunity for a photo, nearly killing Pinhead in the process. The cloud cover though wasn't allowing a good photo. We came of the A82 for a while to take some B-roads, when we came to what we thought was a level crossing and for the first time we had to stop. In fact it was a swing bridge over the River Lochy which was swinging (not wife swapping) but turning to allow a boat through, what was really interesting was the railbridge also had to swing out of the way also. Incidentally, despite the rural nature of our route, we have only had to cross 4 level crossings the whole journey, now isn't that interesting! Just before coming back on to the A82, we stopped off at the Commando Memorial. This was a very sombre moment. They is also a rememberance garden as well. It is very humbling to see who have given their lives for Queen & Country, especially seeing the ages of some of those who have lost their lives, late teens and early twenties. I have included a photo of the memorial, but I didn't think it was appropriate to take any photos of the rememberance garden. Lest We Forget. We then cycled North East following Loch Lochy and Loch Oich. Now I reckon if there was a committee naming these Lochs, surely these two must have been last on the list. After a long night of naming hundreds of Lochs, they probably throught it would be a laugh to name one Loch Lochy and then someone who had a tot too many of Scotch probably was asked for the last name and came up with Loch Oich before he passed out. Now there are 2 ways to cycle along Loch Ness, A82 on the West Side, the easy way of the B862 on the East Side, the hard way. Being seasonsed cyclists, or just down right stupid, we took the hard way. This meant a climb that went on for 4 miles plus and over 1300ft in climbing. But it was well worth it once we got to the top. The views were amazing, I have uploaded some piccies, but I am not sure if they do the views justice. Ideally, I would have liked to take the pictures with my SLR and some ND grad filters, but carrying all that kit would have probably killed me after the 2nd day. We then descended to get along side Loch Ness. We stopped at a tea shop in Foyers for a well earned cup of tea and then cycled half the length of Loch Ness, this is a bloody long Loch I can tell you. We did manage to see two red squirrels though which was nice, but they were too quick to get any photos. The Stag still remains elusive! but we saw a toadstool that I had to take a photo of. By the way what is the difference between a mushroom and a toadstool? Any ideas? We arrived in Inverness (The Capital of the Highlands) just before 6pm. Tonight's Ale was a pint of Trade Winds @ 4.3% from the Cairngorm's Brewery. The barmaid, did not have a clue what I was talking about when I asked her to take the sparkler off. I think she thought I wanted to nick her ring! Roadkill count: We didn't see anything for the first 50k and then we only saw 4 grouse and that was it. The wildlife must have a bit more road sense up here. Distance covered today 104.7kms (65miles). Climbing 1214m (3982 feet) Total to date: Distance 1495.2kms (930.2 miles). Elevation 15360m (50391 feet) Bye for now Fathead BILL AND BEN 09/16/2010
DAY THIRTEEN We left InveraRAY this morning a bit later than we have other mornings. Breakfast wasn't served until 8am and we had to go to the post office. So we didn't get on the road until 9.45. Almost immediately we were met with a 13% climb followed by a gentle but long climb in Glen Array. We cycled around Loch Awe bumping into Mr & Mrs Beresford and Mr Beresford sister when stopping to take a photo. Mrs Beresford kindly offered to sponsor us. As we continued around the Loch, we heard two jets fly over, low and fast, but we were in tree cover so didn't manage to see see them. We then picked up the A85 around the other side of Loch Awe. This stretch of road has to be the worst road surface on a main road we have encountered. It may be OK for cars, but certainly not bikes. A wooden bike with square wheels would have probably been more comfortable. We then went over our first bridge of the day, the Connel Bridge over Loch Etive and then stopped at Benderloch for some lunch. Our 2nd bridge of the day took us over Loch Creran and through a village called Appin, it was so quiet you could hear ap pin drop. We then started up the east side of Loch Linnhe. This time I actually saw a fighter jet flying low up the Loch which was quiet an impressive sight. As we continued up the road, a sheep was walking down the road to us. Pinhead aka Dr Dolittle wanted to get off the bikes and somehow catch said sheep and put it back in a field, how he proposed to do this is anybody's guess. Eventually the sheep went back into a field of it's own accord. We also saw some other wildlife in the shape of Higland Cows, a Bison, some Deer, but no Stag. I would like to say thankyou to the driver of a 'Battersby's' coach who flashed us, waved and took a wide berth. This made a distinct change to most of the other coaches, who seem to play a game of how close can we get to the bike when we pass. These drivers seriously do not pay attention, probably because they are on microphone headsets talking to their SAGA passengers making up any old rubbish as they drive along. To be honest, Pinhead and I have had more close shaves with lorries, coaches and cars in the last 2 days than we have had in the previous 11 days. A lot of the drivers are nutters, performing overtakes on blind bends etc. The problem is that a lot of the roads are literally the only roads, so we are unable to avoid the traffic. About 15k before the end was when Pinhead finally lost his mind. A hover fly landed on his handlebars and stayed on there for about 2 or 3k. During this time, Pinhead named the fly 'Squishy' and had a conversation with said fly!! As we cycled towards Fort William, a rainbow marked the spot where we need to get to and we arrived shotly after 6pm. So we are now at Fort Bill in midst of Ben Nevis, although we haven't actually confirmed that we have seen the mountain yet! When in Scotland, do as the Scottish do and drink a Real Ale from America! Tonghts ale was Red Mountain from the Twisted Pine Brewery Roadkill count was the quitest day today, 1 each of a Hedgehog, Fox, Rabbit and a UA Distance covered today 116.8kms (72.6miles). Climbing 1036m (3398 feet) Total to date: Distance 1390.5kms (865.2 miles). Elevation 14146m (46409 feet) Bye for now Fathead BY ECK THE WEATHER WAS ALMOST FYNE 09/15/2010
DAY TWELVE After been woken up a couple of times during the night due to the gale force winds and torrential rain, Pinhead did not like my prognosis that we were DOOMED, I TELL THEE DOOMED whilst having breakfast. I also received a nice text from Mich to say Max is now saying Mumma, not surprsising really when he hasn't seen Dadda for nearly 2 weeks!! We had a lovely 3 course meal last night, a couple of drinks each, Jacuzzi/Steam Room, full breakfast and accommodation all for £26 each, so a big Thank You to Craig the General Manager for sorting us out and thanks to Sarah on reception who checked travel details for us before we left. The first 20k took ages, if it wasn't the 20-30mph cross headwind that was slowing us down, it was the 60mph gusts that were literally blowing us all over the road, Pinhead more than me as he is a bit more lightweight than myself. We did a what felt like loads of climbing, but that was probably because it was just as hardwork cycling down hill into the wind as it was cycling uphill when in a sheltered spot. We had a lovely long decent to Greenock and cycled through there to Gourock where we were to catch the ferry. Rest assured the distance cycled does not take into account the distance travelled by the ferry. Now I am sure you have all still been religously reading the first two words of my blogs in 'Geordie' as instructed, now the next name place has to be said in a thick Scottish accent and the second syllable has to be strecthed out. We were getting the ferry to DUNOON, or pronounced correctly Dunoooooooooon. The ferry took 20 minutes, crossing the Firth of Clyde. On the ferry we got chatting to another couple of cyclists, Liz & her dad Rob. They were doing a 5 day cycle tour of the Scottish Islands. Liz is a keen mountain biker and Rob is a keen whiskey drinker, so they combined the two. We arrived in Dunooooooon. As we left the port, we were passed by a removal company van. The name of the company was Brian Adams removal. I think Pinhead particulary liked my rendition of 'Everything I move, I move it for you'. We cycled into the Argyll Forest Park along the length of Loch Ech. To be honest my words couldn't do some of the scenery justice, so I hope some of our pictures paint the thousand words. A couple of times the clouds threatened, but luckily the most rain we had to encounter was about 2 minutes of a very light shower. We then picked up the A815 on the east side of Loch Fyne. Where we were staying was only probably about 5k away, but unforuntaley it was on the other side of the Loch on the west side, which meant in cycling terms it was still 30k away. The last 10k was probably our most eventful 10k of the entire ride. We were stopping quite frequently to take pictures anyway, when Pinhead and I both saw some seals on the rocks, so we had to stop and take some piccies, alas, I think our mohawks scared them, and despite there being about half a dozen, by the time I managed to take a shot, only one was left, but I still managed to get a photo. We were just about to move off when two coaches came past, the first one saw us and gave us a wide birth, the second driver was paying no attention at all and if Pinhead had not yanked his bike out of the way, it would now be a meccano kit. Next, I said to Pinhead, what the bloody hell is that, lo and behold a warship (frigate I think) sailing up the Loch! We then saw a couple of lovely old stone bridges, the Inveraray Castle and the welcome to Inveraray sign, that all had to be photographed, with traffic zooming past us. We are staying in a place called the George Hotel tonight, which is just heaven for me. Old style traditional pub, Real Ale on hand pump. Tonight's Ale was Vital Spark @ 4.4% from the Fyne Ales Brewery. Our en-suite bathroom has one of the biggest showers I have seen, and based on Pinhead's geographical knowledge and sense of direction, I was worried that he might not be able to find his way out. Roadkill count was heddgehog 1, rabbit 2, pheasant/grouse 1, fox 1 and alas I am very sad to say that we also saw an Otter (RIP) lying by the side of the road as we cycled around Loch Fyne. Distance covered today 94.7kms (which includes the 6.8km deduction for the ferry crossing) (58.8miles). Climbing 951m (3156 feet) Totals to date: Distance 1273.7kms (792.6 miles). Elevation 13110m (43011 feet) Bye for now Fathead VIVALDI 09/14/2010
DAY ELEVEN I had a very stange night last night, woke up with severe stomach cramps, I was literally double over in pain and ended up having about 3 hours kip in the end. Nothing to do with the B&B, I think it might just be an accumalation of cooked breakfasts. Nevertheless I sat down to a hearty cooked breakfast, best so far including black pudding, haggis & potato cakes. Other than our scary night in Wales, all of our B&B's have been top drawer, but The Rigg House takes number 1 spot at the moment. Jenny & Malcolm were exceptional hosts and the food, accomodation everything was spot on. If only they had real ale on hand pump :-) You would have noticed that there was no mention of real ale on yesterday's blog, and that is beacuse I didn't have one. Anyway, this morning we left to find it breezy with light showers, this was followed by blowing a gale which was followed by hevay rain, which was followed by the mother of all hail storms, which was followed by sunshine, which was followed by gale force winds, which was followed by.... I think you get the picture. The hail storm was one of my most funniest yet most painful experiences. It honestly felt like somebody was throwing gravel at you. I had to cycle leaning to the left to try and stay upright and I know have a crick in my neck where I was trying to angle my head against the wind, rain & hail. Pinhead found it less funny and was frozen to the bone, although we did have 10 minutes of delerious laughter once the storm had passed as we contemplated the obsenity of it all. Today's route followed the A76, although we avoided the actual road itself where we could. We passed through Cumnock and then stopped in a small village called Galstone, but it seems to have been removed from the map :-) We went into the local cafe and had a cup of tea and a portion of chips. We got chatting to the lady behind the counter, well I did as Pinhead admits he couldn't understand a word she was saying. When I told her that we were aiming for Loch Winnoch, she said oh it gets really windy there. We both said really windy!!! what the hell have we been cycling in so far?? Leaving Galston, we passed through Moscow, classic Pinhead quote coming ' This isn't the actual Moscow though is it?' Yes pinhead, we are now in Russia! We passed through Dunlop, but was going so fast, it was just like a Green Flash! and eventually arrived at the Bowfield Hotel. I think the weather really affected our mental state today, PInhead regauarly shouted F*ck off to the wind and/or mother nature, where as I found myself saying Moo and Baa to the livestock in the fields on a regualr basis. Pinhead and I have just spent over an hour in the Health Spa at our hotel, Jacuzzi and Steam Room heaven and I am now sitting in the bar typing this having a pint of Maclachans Best Ale and some food to follow shortly. Despite today being the shortest day distance wise, it was probably the toughest going, the wind was relentless and energy sapping, especially on 3 hours kip. Today's roadkill count. Hedgehog 3, Magpie 1 (New Entry), Rabbit 2, Pheasant/Grouse 2, UA's 4 Distance covered today 72.85kms (45.2 miles). Climbing 962m (3156 feet) Total to date: Distance 1179kms (733.8 miles). Elevation 12159m (39891 feet) Bye for now Fathead SUNBLOCK NOT REQUIRED 09/14/2010
DAY TEN The weather report said rain and as I found out shortly after we left, my usual scientific way of checking the weather doesn't seem to work in Scotland. The first stage of looking up and seeing if there is wet stuff falling is null and void becuase the rain comes at you horizontally. The second stage of lloking for cows lying down is null and void because Cows in Scotland are proper hard nuts, they don't do lying down whatever the weather. Apparantly amongst the cow community in Scotland lying down is for wimps. Nevertheless, it was raining. We left Gretna and travelled through the outskirts of Annan, around the Solway Firth following what is known at the Robert Burns trail, suprisingly not many other people were following this trail on such a lovely day!?!? This took us through a village called Dornock, there is a lot of mileage to be have with that, so i'll give you the opportunity to make up your own jokes. I decided that we should play a game and on the odd occasion that a car came in the opposite direction, you had to wave at them and see how many consecutive waves in return you could get. I got to 10, before a grumpy old bloke who looked like Santa refused to wave. So Pinhead had 10 to beat. He fell at the 3rd time of asking, when driving Miss Daisy approached in her Nissan Micra with her hands glued at the the ten to two position. The scenery might have been nice and I am sure it is on a sunny day, but visibility was so poor, no photo opportunities arose, which is a shame. We did see our second Chinook of the trip so far. I swear that the livestock were looking at us more than usual today and you could see it in their eyes, they were thinking 'what the bloody hell are you two doing out on bikes in this weather'. We cycled into the centre of Dunfries, where the rain abated enough for us to stop and get a quick cup of tea from the Burns Cafe. After Dumfries, we followed B roads that run parallel with the A76 towards Kilmarnock, we passed through a town called Dunscore, that proudly stated it was a fairtrade town, but we all know it was not the world's first! We managed to cause three cattle stampedes, the first two were stampedes towards us, as the cows must have throught we were going to feed them. The 3rd one was along a fence line as we spooked them which in turn scared the life out of me as they ran beside us for 50 yards or so. We also managed to have a race with about a dozen Grouse. Now these birds can fly, but they decided to all just run in front of us and then slowly one by one disappear into the hedgerow. It was very comical to see and all that was missing was the Benny Hill music. The last 12k was on the A76 and this is where I have to make an announcement. Some people may think it is a cold way of doing this and I should speak to my wife face to face about this. But I have to announce that I have another love in my life..... it is newly laid smooth tarmac! We had this continously for about 5k and it was the nicest 5k of cycling that we have had all journey, this soon changed back to the boneshaker-pot holed roads that we have been used to, but for 5k it was cycling bliss, well it would have been if you had removed the headwind and the horizontal rain. The last couple of kms were painful, firtsly because my knee is still playing up and secondly because the the wind and rain increased 4 fold. We are staying in a B&B in Kirkonnel which is about 20 miles south of Kilmarnock and 5 miles North of a small town called Sanquhar. I thought it might be pronounced San-Que-Har or maybe San-Kwa, but apparantly it is pronounced San-Ker. So if I was trying to explain to somebody how to pronounce it, I need to think of a word that rhymes with San-Ker. I for the life of me can't think of one.! But we were given a very warm welcome from Jenny at our B&B. Pot of tea, cycling shoes put in front of the coal stove and all of our wet stuff put in the wash. Plus a Roast Beef dinner and Apple Strudle & custard for dessert. Road Kill count: Hedgehog 1, Rabbit 4, Pheasant/Partridge/Grouse 5, UA's 4 Distance covered today 99.9kms (64 miles). Climbing 505m (1656 feet) Total to date: Distance 1106.15 kms (688.6 miles). Elevation 11197m (36735 feet) Bye for now Fathead | AuthorRay Sievey aka Fathead! ArchivesSeptember 2010 Categories |
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